“Art is as much about the search as it is about the creation,” wrote the Norwegian novelist Karl Ove Knausgaard in his book about the painter. Edvard Munch. “For entrances into reality, openings into the world.” To the uninitiated, this is what Oslo feels like. It is a gateway to Scandinavia, to Norway, and to a society and aesthetic that is familiar but uniquely its own. The city’s unhurried pace and looming institutions present an air of stoic civilization, yet through it all are undercurrents of eclectic folk myth and a relict forest laced with threads of Black Metal and a certain kind of Scandinavian Expressionist madness.

Everything flows outward from the central hub that is City Hall Square, with its charming tourist pier and promenade flanked by the sprawling structures of the Nobel Peace Center, the Norwegian National Museum, City Hall itself and the old fortress just up the hill.

For the art-inclined traveler, the National Museum is the obvious place to start, but its collection is enormous, so spread your visit over two days if you want to see everything without losing steam by the moderns. Its great attraction is of Munch crywhich hangs among some of his greatest pieces. Experiencing Munch’s particularly vivid work is a reason in itself to visit Oslo, and the museum’s wider collection of art and artefacts is impressively enormous and of a high calibre, ranking among Europe’s great museums.

Adjacent to the museum is the Nobel Peace Center, which hosts an overview of the history of the prize and its recipients, with a changing selection of special presentations and art installations. When I went there was a temporary exhibition about an imprisoned Iranian human rights activist Narges Mohammadi and the Woman, life, freedom movementas well as a Yoko Ono installation to which visitors were invited hang written wishes from a tree and build something new out of shards of broken china.

While the above are profound artistic and cultural experiences, the Munch Museum is undoubtedly the crown jewel of Oslo’s art offerings. Opened in late 2021, it contains the bulk of Munch’s expressionist work, organized by various themes. while cry has probably been over-commercialized to the point where it’s difficult to see it for what it is, Munch produced a vast array of excellent work that is criminally underappreciated by much of the world. The design of the building itself has drawn mixed opinions, but I appreciate its slanted metallic brutalism, especially in the context of the scene around it: the beach, the sloping tile park on the opera house’s roof, and the eclectic architecture of the surrounding Bjørvika neighborhood. .

Best known for its expressive architecture, Bjørvika is like an enormous gallery of contemporary Scandinavian design concepts. Its towers tend to rest on the semi-socialized intersection of private and public space, with boldly angled apartment blocks opening onto pedestrian courtyards dotted with the occasional restaurant or cafe.

Far from the city (by Oslo standards, because you can get from one side to the other in no time by tram) in the middle of a neighborhood of well-preserved 120-year-old houses, is Frogner Park, home to an elaborate installation of 200 sculptures. of Gustav Vigeland. Built around a monolith of interconnected human bodies, the individual sculptures depict nude forms in all manner of positions and engagements and are interspersed within a gorgeously landscaped garden. The overall effect is beautiful regardless of the time of day, but it is downright stunning at sunset.

In terms of accommodation, Oslo is a prohibitively expensive city, so I recommend having access to a kitchen to cut costs by preparing meals at home. The hotel Att Kvadraturen it’s a great solution because it not only has in-room kitchens, but also free on-site laundry (laundries are practically non-existent in Oslo). Part of the Revier building, it is directly connected to a restaurant, bar, roof terrace and cinema. In addition, the adjacent rooms and businesses are decorated with pieces by a Norwegian artist Constance Tenvik.

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Eating out can be extremely expensive in Oslo. For affordable snacks on the go, check out the selection of food carts outside the Nobel Center in City Hall Square. If you are looking for a place to relax, walk a few blocks to Masala Politicswhere the prices are relatively reasonable and the food is exceptional.

Finally, no trip to Norway is complete without at least a taste of Black Metal, so hit the road Vaterland Bar & Scenewhere you can take in a show at the second-floor venue or just listen from the grungy bar and pizza place downstairs. It is located in Grønland, a multicultural neighborhood with murals, where there is plenty of food, drink and music. During the day, this is a peaceful place to wander and take photos of the colorful street art. At night, it has a lively atmosphere, which is perfect for visiting bars and sampling Norwegian beer.