Gone are the days of political turmoil: Grenada today has turned a corner and is, mercifully, relaxed. It’s a tropical paradise best known for three things: spices, winter sun and folklore. Of all the spices that grow on the island (the greenest and most fertile of the Lesser Antilles), nutmeg is the queen, featured on the country’s flag and used in everything from teas to liqueurs. Around the island, its fragrance fills the air along with that of cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves. These are also medicinal herbs: good for the gut and play a vital role in regulating the circadian rhythm. Although you wouldn’t know it if you came in August for Carnival (or Spicemas), where the heady, camphorous mix of herbs, drums and rum errs more on the side of laughs.